Madrid
Madrid may not have the glamour or user-friendliness of Barcelona,
but what it lacks in style it more than makes up for in substance,
with a remarkable collection of museums and galleries, beautiful
parks and gardens and wild nightlife.The most fitting place to
start getting to know Madrid is at Puerta del Sol. Sol, as it
is known to locals, is not much more than a huge traffic-junction-cum-bus-stop,
but it's as central as you can get. Although Madrid is an enormous
metropolis, the region which is of most interest to travellers
is confined by Campo del Moro in the west and Parque del Buen
Retiro in the east. The most exciting street is Gran Vía,
but Plaza Mayor is the true heart of Madrid.Be sure not to miss
one of the greatest art galleries in the world, the Museo del
Prado, where the main emphasis is on Spanish, Flemish and
Italian art from the 15th to 19th centuries. Goya is well represented
and you'll find a wealth of paintings by Diego Velázquez.
If you haven't run out of steam after the Prado, the Casón
del Buen Retiro houses an excellent collection of 19th-century
Spanish art. For one of the best art history lessons you'll ever
get, check out the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, a private
assembly of paintings from Titian to Pollock. The Museo de
la Escultura Abstracta, has an interesting collection of abstracts
by some of Spain's better known modern sculptors, including Chillida
and Miró. The beautiful Real Jardin Botánico,
near the Prado, is a good spot to recover from an art overdose.For
the little bit of interior decorator in everyone, visit the Palacio
Real, if only as a lesson in what can happen when you give
yourself free rein - you'll see some of the most elaborately decorated
walls and ceilings imaginable. If you've ever got stuck renovating
a house, take heart in the stark and cavernous Catedral de
Nuestra Señora de la Almudena. It opened to the public
in 1992 after only 110 years under construction.Madrid is the
home of the world's largest bullring, Plaza de Toros Monumental
de las Ventas, and is one of the best places to see a bullfight
(corrida) - if you're so inclined. For something a little
less cruel to animals, check out a football match when local favourites
Real Madrid or Atlético de Madrid are playing at home.
If you're in town on a Sunday morning, snaffle a bargain at El
Rastro, one of the biggest flea markets you are ever likely
to see. This is said to be the place to go if you want to buy
your stereo back, so watch your pockets and bags.Finding a place
to stay in Madrid is never really a problem. In summer the city
is drained of people, thanks to the horrific heat, so if you are
mad enough to be here then, you may well be able to make a hot
deal on the price. At other times it is still worth trying to
bargain if you intend to stay a while. The Santa Ana area is one
of Madrid's most popular places to stay and it's close to good
restaurants and nightclubs. The epicentre of Madrid's nightlife
is Plaza del Dos de Mayo, in the area known as Malasaña.
Barcelona
If you only visit one city in Spain, it probably should be
Barcelona. It's sophisticated, elegant and romantic, but has the
energy and raffishness of a port city. The inspiring and unique
architecture of Antoni Gaudí is evident in buildings such
as the Sagrada Família church and Parc Güell,
and its world-class museums include Museu Picasso and the
Fundació Joan Miró. There is a fascinating
old quarter, the Barri Gòtic, and a night scene
that rivals any in the country.As a starting point, the area around
La Rambla, Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol and
Plaça Reial is a good place to pick up the vibe
of the city. There's a buzz of activity and a constant stream
of people promenading and enjoying the scene. There are hundreds
of cafés, bars, shops and sights.In the north of the city,
the fantasyland of Parc Güell showcases Gaudí's
work. For more modernism, try the Passeig de Gràcia
and its surrounds. For one of the best modern art museums in Spain,
head to the Fundació Joan Miró.Barcelona
has an imposing Gothic cathedral, where each Sunday at
noon crowds gather for the performance of the sardana,
a traditional Catalan dance. Just east of the cathedral is the
fascinating Museu d'Història de la Ciutat (City
History Museum), which features a subterranean walk through excavated
portions of Roman and Visigothic Barcelona.For retail therapy,
the markets are great places to shop. The best are Els Encants
Vells, a good second-hand market at Plaça de les Glòries
Catalanes; the antiques market on Plaça Nova; and
the crafts market at Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol.
There are also enough chic boutiques to keep the fashion-conscious
happy for weeks.When you're all shopped out, there's always food
and drink to pass the time. Barcelona has a seemingly endless
variety of bars that are much more than just watering holes. The
greatest concentration of bars and restaurants is within walking
distance of La Rambla. There are many places to stay in the old
city on either side of La Rambla.
Toledo
Toledo is one of Spain's most magnificent historical monuments.
It's an intact medieval city of narrow winding streets perched
on a small hill above the Río Tajo. The city is crammed
with fascinating museums, galleries, churches and castles. Unfortunately,
it is also crammed with daytrippers, so travellers wanting to
enjoy the city should stay overnight and explore in the evening
and early morning to see it at its best. The dominant Alcázar
has been the scene of military battles from the Middle Ages right
through to the 20th century. The awesome cathedral, in
the heart of the city, harbours glorious murals, stained-glass
windows and works by El Greco, Velázquez and Goya. Other
attractions include the city's two synagogues, the Iglesia
de Santo Tomé (which contains El Greco's greatest masterpiece,
The Burial of the Count of Orgaz) and the Museo de Santa
Cruz. Archaeologists working on Toledo's Carranque
recently uncovered a 4th-century Roman basilica, Spain's oldest.
Valencia
Spain's third-largest city, and capital of the province of Valencia,
comes as a pleasant surprise to many. Home to paella and the Holy
Grail, it is also blessed with great weather and the spring festival
of Las Fallas, one of the wildest parties in the country.One of
Valencia's most raved about attractions is the baroque Palacio
del Marqués de Dos Aguas. The facade is extravagantly
sculpted and the inside is just as outrageous. The Museo de
Bellas Artes ranks among the best museums in the country and
contains works by El Greco, Goya, Velázquez and a number
of Valencian impressionists. The Instituto Valenciano Arte
Moderno (Institute of Modern Art) houses an impressive collection
of 20th-century Spanish art. Valencia's cathedral is also
worth a visit. Climb to the top of its tower for a great view
of the sprawling city.
Granada
During the period of Muslim domination of Spain, Granada was the
finest city on the peninsula. Today it is still home to the greatest
Muslim legacy in Europe, and one of the most inspiring attractions
on the Continent - the Alhambra.The Alhambra is one of
the greatest accomplishments of Islamic art and architecture,
and is simply breathtaking. Much has been written about the fortress,
the palace, its patios and gardens, but somehow nothing can really
prepare you for it. The Alcazaba is the Alhambra's Muslim
fortress dating from the 11th century, with great views of the
city from the tops of its towers. The Palacio Nazaries
is the centrepiece of the Alhambra, and is noted for the intricacy
of its stonework. Finally, there is the Generalife - the
summer palace of the sultans, set in the soul-soothing Alhambra
gardens.Granada's biggest attraction after the Alhambra is the
city itself, which is set against the mountain backdrop of the
Sierra Nevada. Simply wandering around the narrow streets of the
Albayzín, the city's old Muslim quarter, across
the river from the Alhambra, or the area around Plaza Bib-Rambla
is a real pleasure. Stop by the Casa del Castril (Archaeological
Museum) and Baños Árabes (Arab Baths), and
the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) in which Fernando III and
Isabel, the Christian conquerors of Granada, are buried. Next
door to the chapel is Granada's cathedral, which dates
from the early 16th century. The caves of Sacromonte, dug
into a hillside in the north of the city, are another popular
attraction.
Seville
Seville is one of the most exciting cities in Spain, with wonderful
parks and gardens, Muslim monuments, flamenco, bullfights and
a large and lively student population. Expo 92 brought the city
into the international spotlight. If you really want to experience
Seville at its best, try to come for Semana Santa (the week before
Easter) or for the Feria de Abril (in April) - a truly unforgettable
experience.Seville's immense cathedral is listed in the
Guinness Book of Records as having an area greater than
any other in the world. This immense structure is primarily Gothic,
though the work done after its central dome collapsed in 1511
was mostly in Renaissance style. The climb to the adjoining tower,
known as the Giralda, is well worth the effort for the great views
of the city. Check out the Alcázar, a magnificent
palace dating from the Moorish times of Spain; and the Archivo
de Indias, which houses over 80 million pages of documents
dating from 1492 through to the decolonisation of the Americas.Other
attractions are the Parque de María Luisa, which
has a maze of paths, garden beds, pretty little patios, fountains
and shaded lawns; the Museo Arqueológico, which
has an interesting collection of broken statues and bronze tablets;
and the rather kitsch Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares.
San Sebastián
San Sebastián is stunning. Famed as a ritzy resort
for wealthy Spaniards who want to get away from the hordes in
the south, it has been a stronghold of Basque nationalist feeling
since well before Franco banned the use of Euskera, the Basque
language, in the 1930s. Donostia, as the city is known in Euskera,
is a surprisingly relaxed town with a population approaching 180,000.
Those who live here consider themselves the luckiest people in
Spain and will not hesitate to tell you so. After spending a few
days on the beaches and a few evenings sampling the city's sumptuous
tapas and nonstop nightlife, you may well begin to appreciate
their unbashful claim.The Playa de la Concha, and its continuation
at Ondarreta, is one of the most beautiful city beaches in Spain.
You can swim from Ondarreta to Isla de Santa Clara, in
the middle of the bay, and in summer, a number of rafts are anchored
at the halfway point to serve as rest stops.The Museo de San
Telmo, in a 16th-century monastery, has a bit of everything
- ancient tombstones, sculptures, agriculture and carpentry displays,
a wonderful fine arts collection - and the squeakiest floors in
Spain. Overlooking Bahía de la Concha is Monte Urgull,
which is topped by a statue of Christ and has stunning views.
Balearic Islands
Floating in the blue waters of the Mediterranean off the eastern
coast of Spain, the Balearic Islands are invaded every summer
by a massive multinational force of tourists. Not surprising really,
when you consider the fine beaches, relentless sunshine and wild
nightlife. What is surprising is how the islands have managed
to maintain their integrity, identity and strong links with the
past. Beyond the clubs and beaches are Gothic cathedrals, Stone
Age ruins, small fishing villages, and endless olive groves and
orange orchards. There are four islands: the biggest is Mallorca,
followed by Menorca, Ibiza and tiny Formentera. Formentera is
the least developed; Ibiza attracts party animals, gays, hippies
and fashion victims - it's one of the world's most bizarre melting
pots.
Bilbao
Post-industrial Bilbao, the largest city in the País Vasco
(Basque Country) is transforming itself with ambitious urban-renewal
projects, most notably the marvellous Museo Guggenheim de Arte
Contemporáneo. This twist-up of glass and titanium,
designed by US architect Frank Gehry and inspired by the anatomy
of the fish and the hull of a boat, is the city's showpiece. The
contents of this sardine can are no less stunning than its exterior:
works by Serra, Braque, Kandinsky, Picasso, Warhol and more line
its walls and halls. The Museo de Bellas Artes, just 300m
up the road, is also worth a look. When you tire of art riches,
wander over to the restaurants and bars of the medieval casco
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