Zürich
Switzerland's most populous city is reputed to be the intellectual
and cultural capital of the nation. It's most famous burst of
creativity came in 1916 when the Dada art movement emerged from
the Cabaret Voltaire - strangely enough at exactly the same time
those playful dudes Lenin and Trotsky were also in residence.
Today the city is more famous for its pinstriped gnomes and art
galleries, and for the way it manages to balance finance and aesthetics
better than anyone but Sothebys.
The city is situated some 400m above sea level, straddling the
Limmat River as it leaves the northern end of Lake Zürich.
The pedestrian streets of the old town contain most of the major
sights, including winding alleyways, 16th- and 17th-century houses,
guildhalls and courtyards, and rather a lot of fountains (1030
if you're taking notes).
The elegant Bahnhofstrasse was built on the site of the city walls,
which were torn down 150 years ago. Underfoot are bank vaults
crammed with gold and silver and other booty - unfortunately these
are not open to the public (we can't figure out why). For the
clock-watchers, the 13th-century tower of St Peter's Church has
the largest clock face in Europe. The Fraumünster Church
nearby is noted for the distinctive stained-glass windows in the
choir, which were created by Marc Chagall in 1970 at the ripe
old age of 83.
The Museum of Fine Arts has a large permanent collection ranging
from 15th-century religious art to the 'modern' art of Monet,
Manet and Man Ray. The Swiss National Museum, housed in a pseudo-castle
north of the city centre, provides the ultimate rundown on the
life and times of the Swiss nation and, just in case you forgot
you were in Switzerland, has an interesting section on book-inscribing
in the Middle Ages. When the culture vulture in you can't take
any more, there are pleasant pathways along the shores of Lake
Zürich that pass picnic, sunbathing and swimming spots.
Hostels are located on the perimeter of the city centre and there
are a few budget hotels on the east bank of Limmat River. Accommodation
can be a problem during the summer months, so book ahead if possible.
Nightlife is centred on the streets around Niederdorfstrasse.
This is also a red-light district. Don't be alarmed if you stumble
bleary-eyed out of a club on Sunday morning to be met by devout
parishioners parading through the sin-sodden streets singing hymns
to anyone who will listen.
Geneva
Comfortably encamped on the shore of Lake Geneva, this spic-and-span
city belongs to the international community as much as it belongs
to the Swiss: over 200 international organisations are headquartered
here; one in three residents are non-Swiss; and just about every
global problem from nuclear proliferation to ethnic cleansing
has done a star turn at Geneva's famously neutral negotiating
tables. The global affairs it tries to make sense of may be murky,
distressing and dangerous, but the city itself is pristine, efficient
and safe. Some punters have gone as far as to complain about sterility,
but then some people wouldn't recognise a good thing if it waved
a dozen flags and shouted in their ear.
The city enjoys a fine location, and strolls around the lake and
boating excursions are hugely enjoyable. The cable car up Mont
Salève offers the complete picturesque panorama. The Rhône
River runs through the city with the old part of town lying on
the south side. The centre of town is dominated by the partially
Romanesque, partially Gothic Cathedral St Pierre. John Calvin
preached here from 1536 to 1564 and the body of the church matches
the austerity of his teachings. The nearby Place du Bourg-de-Four
is the oldest square in Geneva. It was once a Roman forum, evolved
into a medieval marketplace, and is now destined for a future
as the loci of touristy shops.
Fortunately, there's plenty of culture to combat the kitsch. The
Museum of Art & History has a vast and varied collection including
paintings, sculpture, weapons and archaeology. The compact Petit
Palais has an excellent and focussed collection of modern art.
The International Red Cross & Red Crescent Museum offers a
vivid multimedia trawl through atrocities perpetuated by humanity
in recent history. Other museums include the catchy Museum of
Old Musical Instruments, the Horology Museum and the Voltaire
Museum.
Geneva has decent nightlife, but it ain't cheap. The presence
of so many diplomats, international administrators and bankers
also means that prices for food and accommodation can be high.
A handful of hostels and budget hotels can be found on both sides
of the river. Inexpensive restaurants are concentrated in the
vicinity of the university, and north and west of Gare de Cornavin.
Lucerne
Lucerne is ideally situated in the historic and scenic heart of
what many believe to be the 'true' Switzerland - picture mountains,
lakes, cowbells, alpine villages and meadows full of edelweiss.
The charming town straddles the Reuss River on the western edge
of Lake Lucerne and makes an excellent base for excursions.
On the north bank of the Reuss, the picturesque old-town centre
offers 15th-century buildings with painted facades, towers, a
17th-century Renaissance town hall and a couple of postcard-perfect
covered bridges. North-east of the city centre is the poignant
Lion Monument, which was carved out of natural rock in 1820 and
is dedicated to the Swiss soldiers who died in the French Revolution.
Next to it is the fascinating Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden)
where giant glacial potholes prove that 20 million years ago Lucerne
was a subtropical palm beach.
The Transport Museum contains trains, planes and automobiles and
includes the Swissorama, a 20-minute, 360° film that whizzes
you around the sights of Switzerland as if you were travelling
by air, sea, road and foot. If you need some fresh air and exercise
to work off all those yummy chocolates you've been scoffing, pedalboats,
row boats and kayaks can be hired on the Reuss River and on Lake
Lucerne. If you need some fresh vegies to combat the calories,
there are oh-so-picturesque fruit and vegetable markets along
the river quays.
Jungfrau Region
If you're looking for jaw-dropping scenery, the Jungfrau region
south of Interlaken has it in spades. The towering 4000m triplets
- the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger - dominate the area, and
there are plenty of cable cars, funiculars, cog-wheel railways
and hiking trails offering panoramic vantage points for those
not suffering landscape vertigo. Grindelwald is the most established
skiing and hiking centre in the region; watch out for the yodelling
festival held here in July.
Château de Chillon
Chillon Castle receives more visitors than any other historical
building in Switzerland. Occupying a stunning position right on
Lake Geneva, the fortress caught the public imagination when Lord
Byron wrote about the fate of Bonivard, a follower of the Reformation
who was chained to the fifth pillar in the dungeons for four years
in the 16th century. Byron etched his own name on the third pillar.
The castle, still in excellent condition, dates from the 11th
century and has been much modified and enlarged since then. It's
worth spending an afternoon viewing the tower, courtyards, dungeons
and numerous rooms containing weapons, utensils, frescos and tupperware.
The castle is located within walking distance of Montreux, the
centrepiece of the Swiss Riviera.
Bernese Oberland
For some great castle touring head to the Lake Thun area in central
Switzerland, just south of Bern. In the town of Thun itself, you'll
find the 12th-century Schloss Thun on the hill. It contains a
good historical museum and there are fine views from the turrets
of the Romanesque tower. One of the best castles around the lake
is the 13th-century Schloss Oberhofen, which was once held by
the Habsburgs, and has a good collection of grand furniture, portraits
and weapons, and even boasts a Turkish smoking room. The gardens
were landscaped in the 19th century and are a fine place for a
stroll. Schloss Hunegg at nearby Hilterfingen was built in the
1860s and renovated in 1900. It's a fascinating mix of neo-Renaissance
and art nouveau styles and has a funky split-level bathroom complete
with a nickel-plated bathtub. If you're a castle buff, you can
squeeze in a visit to all three fortifications in a day-trip by
boat.
Zermatt
This swanky skiing and mountaineering resort bathes in the reflected
glory of one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, the 4478m Matterhorn.
Skiers come here to enjoy virtually year-round skiing and there
are 230km of runs in the area, catering mainly to intermediate
and experienced skiers. The more sedentary come simply to enjoy
the awe-inspiring views. For some magical vistas of the Matterhorn
and surrounding peaks, take the popular cog-wheel railway to Gornergrat.
It's easy to get around Zermatt on foot (the town is car-free)
and it's well worth exploring the Hinter Dorf area, which is crammed
with traditional tumble-down wooden Valais homes. A walk in the
cemetery is a sobering experience for would-be mountaineers. The
names of those who attempted the Matterhorn and Mt Rosa and did
not live to tell the tale are inscribed on stone monuments. |
